In recent years, focaccia has gone mainstream—it’s served in chain restaurants and sold in grocery stores. But more often than not, foccacia is just so-so bread that’s slim in profile, dimpled on the surface, doused with oil, and sprinkled with this or that seasoning.

This recipe makes rounds of focaccia that are far superior to most . . . and without so much as a stand mixer. The biga gives the bread good, solid flavor, and autolyse followed by folding develop a gluten structure that bakes up into an open, rustic crumb with irregular bubbles and a perfect balance of tenderness and chew.

Total Cooking Time: 720

Preparation Time: 15

Active Cooking Time: 45

Make Ahead: Best when freshly baked

Yield: Makes two 9-inch round loaves

Difficulty: Intermediate